Cycling journalist Jack Thurston has embarked on an odyssey through Scotland's most isolated roads, documenting the experience in his new book. The expedition focuses on Sutherland, Britain's most remote and rugged terrain, where cyclists can pull over for breakfast without encountering a single vehicle for hours.
Thurston and his travel companion Ben navigated quiet hill tracks and forgotten byways that disappear from most travellers' radar. One memorable morning found them near Dun Dornaigil, a 2,000-year-old Iron Age broch (stone roundhouse), with Ben Hope's dark cliffs looming above through low cloud. The journey launched from Lairg, traditionally known as the "crossroads of the north," establishing a starting point for exploring Scotland's forgotten cycling routes.
This adventure taps into a growing travel trend. Cyclists increasingly seek alternatives to crowded mainstream routes, preferring remote landscapes that offer solitude and authentic encounters with Britain's wilderness. Sutherland delivers exactly that experience. The region's minimal traffic, dramatic topography, and historical sites create an ideal cycling destination for adventurers willing to venture beyond established tourist corridors.
The appeal lies partly in accessibility. Cyclists don't require expensive guided tours or luxury accommodations. Instead, they need reliable bikes, basic camping equipment, and detailed maps of Scotland's quieter network. The region's sparse population means fewer services, making self-sufficiency essential. Accommodation options range from budget bothies and camping to modest guesthouses in small towns like Lairg.
Thurston's project reflects a broader shift in travel preferences. Post-pandemic, travellers increasingly value remote exploration over crowded attractions. Scotland's Highlands offer dramatic scenery, archaeological richness, and complete disconnection from urban centres. For cyclists with moderate fitness levels, these hill tracks provide manageable challenges without requiring expert technical skills